So, now that you have decided which needlecraft you’d like to try, do you need some help with selecting your fabric for it?  There are so many choices of needlework fabric that it can be difficult to choose from all the options, particularly as you will want to make sure you make the right choice for your new hobby, as well as enjoying your creative journey.  We have created this guide to introduce the types of fabric to you, and to help you choose the right one for your project.

Download a PDF version of this guide for offline reading.

Fabric for Cross Stitch

There are two kinds of fabric most often used for cross stitch – aida and evenweave.  Evenweave is then available in two types – cotton evenweave and linen evenweave.  They all have a different structure but share a characteristic essential for cross stitch: evenly woven strands.  As cross stitch pieces are constructed from aligned stitches, the fabric used must be constructed as an even grid of strands.

Fabric Count

Before we begin to look in more detail at the fabric types used for cross stitch, an important point to understand concerns the “count” of the fabric.  This refers to the number of stitches that the fabric has for each inch in measurement, and it affects the size of the holes, the size of the stitches, and the eventual size of the finished design.

You will see that, for the aida on the left, the holes between the woven strands are visible, whereas for the evenweave on the right, the weave is much tighter and, although you can see the woven strands, the weave is too tight to see the holes.  This is because the aida fabric count is lower, meaning there are fewer holes per inch than for the evenweave.

The lower the count, the larger the stitch will be, because there will be fewer of them per inch.  For aida, this is always the case – you stitch into each hole in the fabric, and there will be 14 stitches for each inch of the fabric on 14 count aida.  For evenweave, it is often the case that you will stitch into every other hole in the fabric, so stitching over two fabric threads rather than one on aida.  This means that, for example, stitching on 28 count evenweave fabric will give you a finished piece the same size as if it were stitched on 14 count aida (you simply divide by two).

Aida

Aida is usually a fairly stiff fabric, made up of grouped strands with a precise square patterned weave with visible stitching holes, making it simple to use and most popular for beginners.  The visible holes make it easy for the needle to glide through, and it is the fabric often used for cross stitch kits. 

Evenweave Fabric

Evenweave can be made from linen or cotton and is a more tightly woven fabric, creating a smaller grid pattern. It can be used for the same projects as aida and, as explained above, if you choose a count that is twice that of the equivalent aida (e.g. 16 count aida, 32 count evenweave), then your finished piece will be the same size.  You may prefer how the finished project looks on evenweave because of the tighter weave of the fabric, and the smaller and less visible holes.  Additionally, some cross stitchers find half and quarter stitches easier to work on evenweave than aida because of the “spare” hole in the centre of each cross stitch.  Back stitch, also, can be worked to follow closer to the outlines of the cross stitches on evenweave, again because the additional holes give greater flexibility for you to “bend” your long stitches more subtly.

Stitching onto either linen or cotton evenweave also gives additional flexibility in the size of your project.  This is because, rather than stitching over two threads of the fabric (missing out one hole), you have the option of stitching into each hole, as you would on aida.  This technique is called “over one” (referring to the fact that you will stitch into each hole, missing out only one thread of the fabric).  This will make the finished piece half the size of the same project stitched over two threads, and results in a tiny, very delicate project.

And, a final note on cross stitch fabric…

If you’re not using a kit, or if you simply decide to purchase and use your own choice of fabric for a kit pattern, make sure you carefully check the measurements of your fabric before you begin stitching.  There are many online cross stitch calculators to help with this – you simply input the stitch dimensions of your chart, the count of your fabric, and whether you are stitching over 1 or over 2, and it will calculate the size of fabric required.  Remember, also, to leave sufficient space around all sides for finishing your piece.

And, finally, if your fabric is not square, double check that you are stitching in the correct orientation – please don’t get halfway across the stitching on the longer edge of the pattern and find you have run out of room because you are using the shorter side of the fabric.  We speak from experience and it is very disappointing!

Fabric for Tapestry

Fabric for tapestry is called canvas and is available, like cross stitch fabric, in different counts, although the most commonly used are 10, 12 and 14.  This refers to the number of holes per inch.  Canvas with a higher count number will be finer, and the finished project will be smaller.  For a lower canvas count, the stitches will be larger and so it will be quicker to cover a large stitched area.  Normal tapestry wool will not be thick enough to give good coverage on a low count (e.g. 8 count) canvas.  A kit or pattern should specify the canvas count required to ensure your project will turn out the correct size; most will recommend 10, 12 or 14 count.

Tapestry canvases also have a few differences in thread numbers and weave types.

Mono or single thread canvases can be used for any stitch apart from half cross and are perfect for beginners.  The holes are divided evenly by single threads running in both directions.  Double thread canvas is woven with two threads and is suitable for any stitch.  It is more robus canvas than single thread, meaning that it holds its shape well, even after much handling during the stitch process.  This canvas is more likely to be recommended for smaller designs with more intricate areas of stitching.  Finally, Interlock canvas has the vertical and horizontal threads wrapped around each other, giving it a very sturdy structure.  It is, however, also lightweight, and so is best suited to smaller pieces.

Fabric for Punch Needle

The fabric used for punch needling depends on the size of the needle you have chosen.  For finer needles, a tighter weave fabric will be perfect, whereas for a chunkier needle, a looser weave fabric would be a better choice.  As a general rule, as the punch needle tool gets wider, you will need to use a looser weave of fabric (and a thicker yarn).  Monks Cloth is the most popular choice of fabric for this craft.  Although it is soft, it is also very hard-wearing, which is important as the craft can be quite tough on the fabric.  Additionally, because it is traditionally used to make rugs, a robust fabric is essential – one that is tough enough to be walked on.  Monks Cloth is not just hard-wearing but also very forgiving if you need to take out stitches and re-punch them, as the holes made in error will close up quite easily.

When deciding on your Monks Cloth fabric count, we would recommend 12 or 14 for both a regular and a fine punch needle project.

Linen can also be used for more delicate punch needling projects and here, to ensure stability, we would recommend a tightly woven fabric, e.g. 32 count.  Linen will not be as forgiving as Monks Cloth if you need to take out incorrect stitches.

FAQs

“What’s the difference between soluble canvas and waste canvas?”

Both are perfect for cross stitching on items such as clothing and home accessories.  They provide a grid for you to stitch through, and are then removed after the cross stitch design is completed.  Soluble canvas is made from PVA and, once you have finished stitching, the project can be soaked in warm water to remove the residue.  Waste canvas also contains a glue agent;  once the design is complete, if you wet the canvas you can use tweezers to pull away the canvas threads.  Taking care when removing the canvas threads will ensure your stitches stay in place.  And try using a chenille or sharp needle for the cross stitching – it can make it easier to push through the layers.

“My pattern recommends 14 count aida.  I want my finished cross stitch to be the same size but I want to use evenweave fabric.  What count do I need to choose?”

If you are going to stitch the piece over 2 fabric threads, then you need 28 count evenweave (just double the aida count). 

If you find any of these instructions unclear, or just need a little extra help, don’t hesitate to email us at sales@woolwarehouse.co.uk or give us a call on 01926 88 28 18.